Southeast Asia

Days 330-331: Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand

Posted on by ajrtw

One of the colorful buses to Phimai
Phimai Historic Park
awaiting our ride to Nahkon Ratchasima at Bangkoks’ Hua Lamphong Station
noodle soup lunch in Khorat
Phimai Historic Park

Departing Bangkok via train at Hua Lamphong Station, we arrived a few hours later in the provincial capital Nakhon Ratchasima, more commonly referred to as Khorat.  Just down the road a short shuttle-ride away was the famed Khmer ruins of Phimai Historic Park.  Outside the park entrance we rented cruiser bikes for 30 baht a piece and off we went on the paved paths meandering through the park.  Approximately the same age as Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, Phimai was a great alternative for us:  compact size, ease of getting around, great food nearby, and most importantly, not overrun with tourists.
We lazed away the afternoon biking around, sipping on fruit shakes in the grass at the park before checking out the impressive Sai Ngam Banyan Tree.  More of a small forest of intertwined trunks, the maze of branches made for very interesting photos. In town we stumbled upon a massive night market complete with multiple types of Milk Teas, and delicious Pad Thai.  The next morning we huffed it back to the bus station on foot, and grabbed a north-bound bus to Loei.

Day 329: Bangkok, Thailand

Posted on by ajrtw

Again, we found ourselves landing in Bangkok for a few days in the metropolis before continuing our journey.  In a way, places like Bangkok that we returned to several times began to feel welcoming and all the more enjoyable to explore.  We grabbed the A2 local bus from Don Muang airport over to the MRT, and then walked the final ten minutes to the isanook hostel situated in the Si Phraya neighborhood.

We spent the afternoon with some fellow travelling friends, eating some street food and relaxing before another travel day, this time north to the Isan region.

Days 326-328: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Posted on by ajrtw

Saigon at dusk
Vietnam War Artifacts Museum

At the huge bus station outside HCMC we found the city bus that would bring us by our hotel, none other than the Intercontinental.  We said farewell to Anna & Andreas as they were staying in another area of town.  Crossing the 3 month mark of our time in Asia, the two nights we spent at the 5 star hotel in the heart of Saigon were so very welcome after countless dorms and rooms with shared baths.  Having a cupcake store and Dunkin Donuts around the corner certainly added to the feeling of home to our stay.  Our culinary adventures led us to try more Vietnamese staples such as bun bo hue and crab bun cua, as well as a return visit to the bun thit nuoug stall in Ben Thanh market.  

 

Perhaps the most surprising, yet delicious meal in Vietnam came from the authentic italian fare we shared at Ciao Bella on the eve of the Tet holiday.  We even found a craft brewery ran by an enterprising American at Pasteur Street.  Along with the rest of the city, we strolled down the brightly lit and decked out Flower Street, feeling glad to have stayed in the city to witness the celebratory atmosphere.  For the final night in town, we transferred across town to a small and friendly hotel closer to the airport.  The entire next month would be dedicated to further exploring the beloved neighbor, Thailand.

Days 324-325: Can Tho & Vinh Long, Vietnam

Posted on by ajrtw

papaya boatman at our homestay
street food stall in Can Tho

To break up our visit to Saigon we decided to head to the nearby Mekong delta towns of Can Tho and Vinh Long for a few days.  We snagged a taxi to the FUTA bus office where we purchased our tickets, then waited for a shuttle van to drop us at the huge bus depot.  A few hours later we arrived in Can Tho and walked a few blocks to the center of town to our room at the Kim Long Hotel.  With only one night planned, we signed up right away for an evening street food walking tour, and a boat tour to the morning floating market the following day.  Itching for a snack we happened upon a small stall advertising bo la lat (grilled pork wrapped in betel leaves), which we’d not yet found in HCMC.  That evening we joined another young trave

ling couple for the walking tour around town.  Our guide brought us to several stalls and a few sit down eateries to sample banh xeo, nam nuong, and cha gio.  While he tried to sell the group on trying frog and snake dishes, our guide couldn’t convince us in the end.  In addition to learning about about the cuisine native to the Mekong Delta, we also took away lots of info regarding Tet celebrations, and how American culture is revered in the eyes of the Vietnamese.

 

Just before sunrise we inhaled a hotel breakfast and walked to the end of the street to the small pier where our guide and tiny wooden boat was waiting among a large armada of tourists waiting to board similar boats to visit the famous floating market.  An hour down the Mekong passed by fairly quickly as the sun rose and locals went about their day on the water and the surrounding banks.  In the distance a mass of wooden vessels of various sizes emerged to be the market itself, and our boat lady guided us slowly through the very center of the action.  Everything from fruit to potted plants were being traded, thrown, and shuttled around the river in a very delicate yet chaotic manner.  Boat lady surprised us with pineapple snacks as we headed for our first stop at a small rice paper factory.  Inside the factory a handful of workers were churning out large circular sheets of rice paper every few seconds, and then after a period of drying, cut into slim noodles.  Further downstream we grabbed a very touristy lunch along with all the other boat tours, and accidentally ended up picking up the cost for the boat lady’s lunch (a harmless, but nonetheless annoying scammy tactic perfected by these tour operators).
Back at the local bus station we hitched a ride on the special holiday Tet price (another annoyance of the day) further south to Vinh Long.  From the bus station we walked a few blocks to the ferry jetty heading to An Binh Island, a large inhabited island on the Mekong full of rural homestays.  Our hosts at Ba Linh homestay were gracious enough to pay for our moto taxi from the pier to their home, and the serene atmosphere started to calm what had been a trying day.  At dinner we convened in the large kitchen with the family to help prepare papaya salad and cha gio (fried rice paper rolls).  In addition to the sides we made, there were a plethora of other homemade dishes which we ate heartily.  Over dinner we shared conversation with Anna and Andreas, a friendly couple nearing the end of their year long RTW trip (check out their blog at ourultimatejourney.com).  After an equally filling breakfast, we squeezed in a short but scenic bike ride along the small irrigation canals weaving throughout the island.  Back to the ferry we went along with Anna & Andreas, then to the FUTA bus station for the trip back into Ho Chi Minh City- just in time to catch the Tet action.

Days 322-323: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Posted on by ajrtw

Turtle Lake in HCMC
Banh Mi!
HCMC’s famous post office
Bun Thit Nuong in Ben Thanh Market

The quaint small town feel of Kontum vanished as we taxied into the bustling metropolis of Ho Chi Minh City late in the evening.  Meandering down alleys only two shoulder widths wide, we found our hostel in the tourist-central District 1 area.  The following morning we toured the area on foot, including the packed Ben Thanh market.  Inside the food court area, we discovered some excellent Bun Cha Gio and Bun Thit Nuong (vermicelli bowl with egg rolls and grilled pork) after being bombarded with plastic menus as we perused each stall.  By the end of our first day we’d mastered the art of crossing the unending flow of motorbikes on the main thoroughfares throughout the city center.
In a park outside the historic central Post Office building, we happened upon a lady preparing Banh Trang Nuong, aka Vietnamese “pizza” out of a small basket.  The pizza consisted of grilled sheets of rice paper filled with baby shrimp, a variety of vegetables and spicy sauce.  To escape the unrelenting heat, we stopped in for several iced coffees (even found a Dunkin Donuts), and discovered a cupcake shop.  Not to miss out on any must-try foods, we sampled Banh Mi from one of the most recommended stalls in District 1.  To break up our city experience, we planned a two day excursion south into the Mekong Delta before returning to the city.

Day 321: Kontum, Vietnam

Posted on by ajrtw

outskirts of Kontum
the real deal: pho
meeting house visible in every rural community
on the motorbike tour
Catholic church on Kontum city
stopping for tea

Due to the looming Tet holiday in early February, we chose to condense our time in Vietnam into 8 days to avoid the inconveniences of being in the country during Tet.  As such we planned only one full day in rural Kontum and wanted to get a real sense of the area.  We found a great tour guide who was available to show us around on a motorbike tour.  Along with his sidekick, Ashley and I each rode back seat through the countryside, stopping first at a large reservoir surrounded by bare hills, known as Rocket Ridge, a former battleground during the Vietnam War.  From there we visited a few different ethnic villages, some practicing Catholicism, others indigenous beliefs.  

 

We sat for afternoon snacks with two friends of our guide, and sampled the local fare, such as homemade tamarind candy.  Back in the town for lunch, our guides suggested a back alley pho joint that certainly didn’t disappoint.  With a bit of extra time before our short flight from nearby Pleiku to Ho Chi Minh, we visited a french Catholic mission, and a Catholic church.  According to our guide, he and his family hid in the crawlspace underneath the church during the Battle of Kontum.
As the sun went down we were put on the bus out of town to Pleiku airport, feeling like we had gotten a glimpse into a portion of Vietnamese culture not often seen by the outside world.

Day 320: Pakse, Laos to Kontum, Vietnam

Posted on by ajrtw

At five in the morning we found ourselves being shuttled by our hotel owner in Pakse to catch the bus heading over the border to Kontum, Vietnam.  Literally, the bus was already heading out of town and our friendly host flashed his lights to stop the bus and get us onboard.  Immediately as we got on we knew the ride would be less than ideal (however we did some considerable shopping around for this bus trip and got a great price).  Crammed under and in between all the seats on the minibus were boxes full of goods.  Naturally, there are no highways in Laos or Vietnam, and despite being a 13 hour journey, just about any local can commandeer a seat or standing area on the bus (for about a third of what we paid).  The journey took a bad turn when a large group of male workers jumped on the bus.  They chain smoked the rest of the day into Kontum and were annoyingly loud.  The only relief from the second hand smoke was opening the window as wide as possible.  At the included lunch stop, the friendly bus helper invited us to join at the family style meal, and gave us a bit of a lesson in how to eat the various dishes.
After an insignificant border crossing, we were so relieved to get out of the bus and into the bustling streets of Kontum.  Of course the bus stopped a few km out of the downtown area, so we began our walk, and stopped along the way to grab pho and a few banh mi.  We realized that the hotel was too far of a walk, so we quickly grabbed a taxi (luckily most taxi’s across Vietnam are reputable and always use the meter).  Fatigued, we retired to our private room at the Konklor hotel just happy to have made it.  

Days 315-319: Don Det, Laos

Posted on by ajrtw

In the riverside town of Nakasong, we trekked through the main drag from the bus station to the longtail boats, along with dozens of other island goers.  Situated just north of the Cambodian border, Don Det is one of the larger and more touristic islands among the 4000 islands river delta.  On arrival we took a long hot walk along the eastern shore of the island in search of a river-view room somewhat away from the commotion of the village.  We found a very basic room with shared bathroom that would suffice for the first night.  Wandering around the Don Det village, we happened upon a great local husband and wife eatery that didn’t seem too busy.  The menu was creative and not the same old tourist smorgasbord which we have grown an appreciation for.  The other options were lackluster so we returned twice more to the same spot for dinner.
After 2 nights were relocated to another riverside bungalow with it’s own bathroom, and continued to lounge in the hammocks, watch fishermen whiz by on their motorized canoes, take the occasional bike ride, and grab a hearty lunch at the no name family-run store across the main “path”.  Although we didn’t witness one of the iconic Mekong sunsets Don Det is known for, we really enjoyed the atmosphere of the island.  The husband from our favorite dinner joint explained at length the struggles in starting his business and the effect of tourism on Laos in general.  Another prime example of a genuinely nice person we’ve met in our travels.  Four days came and went, and we boated back to Nakasong.  At the bus station about a hundred people were waiting and none of the bus employees were very helpful, making the process of boarding the buses dreadfully slow.  We were happy to arrive back at Nang Noi guesthouse in Pakse, and shared a great authentic Italian dinner on our last evening in Laos.  Next stop: Kontum, Vietnam.

Days 312-314: Bolaven Plateau, Laos

Posted on by ajrtw

organic goods from Katu homestay
Katu homestay with Mr Vieng
balcony view from Tad Lo village
the lower Tad Lo waterfall
coffee sun drying
traffic jam
traffic jam
Laos!

Not to our surprise, our bus to Pakse unloaded us at the edge of town, where a few tuk-tuk drivers happily quoted outrageous rides 1500 meters to the town center. Naturally we walked, much to their dismay. At the Nangnoi Guesthouse the very helpful husband & wife proprietors allowed us to leave our bags, arranged our bus tickets to Kontum in Vietnam, and also a motorbike rental as we planned to leave right away for the Bolaven Plateau the same day. Just after lunch at the Vida Cafe, we set out west on the bike for a short trip to the rural Katu Homestay. As recommended by several bloggers, the family run homestay and organic coffee farm was a great place to get a glimpse at the Lao countryside. We savored a homemade soup, organic bananas and peanuts. In the morning we also ground our own coffee beans by hand.

Next morning we took an easy ride east to touristy Tad Lo village, situated near several waterfalls. We lucked out with a basic riverside room with balcony. In late afternoon we walked upstream and watched as two resident elephants from the upscale Tad Lo Lodge took their daily swim in the natural pool above the falls. From our balcony we watched darkness settle in over the falls. Our final day of riding took us south to the junction town of Paksong where we hoped to stop for coffee. Our desired cafe was closed so we warmed up with pho instead. Not long after we were lured into a very modern cafe situated at a large countryside resort to snap a few photos and a enjoy warm drink. The greenery along the Plateau route was only moderately appealing, however we passed by many villages, saw lots of pigs roaming around, and met some curious locals. On our return in Pakse we enjoyed a mouth watering pasta dinner at Dok Mai Lao.

With provisions resupplied, we boarded the tourist minivan bound for Don Det island in the 4000 islands at the southern border of Laos.

Days 309-311: Savannahket, Laos

Posted on by ajrtw

Getting around by bus in Laos was slow, pricey, and uncomfortable.  From Phonsavanh we got on the first early morning bus to Paksan, where we were let off on the curb.  Along with a young Italian man we walked towards what we thought was a bus station to find the next bus heading further south.  Eventually we waved down a packed-to-the-gills, ancient-looking bus loaded with everything imaginable including a few thousand cucumbers stacked on the roof.  For the next several hours we endured a standing room only ride through the afternoon heat.  Along the way we made an extended stop and all hundred bags of cucumbers were thrown down to the curb.  Just after dark we arrived in Thakek, and thankfully made it with ample time to transfer to the final bus of the day to Savannakhet.  North of town the road split and we were transferred into a minivan for the final half hour, then grabbed a tuk-tuk ride to our resting place after 589 km of travel.  We were very happy with our large room at Savanphattana Guesthouse with a large shady balcony and excellent wifi.

 
Sleepy and devoid of nearly any tourism other than the occasional cross-Mekong Thai visitors, Savannakhet offered us a chance to plan out our next several moves.  We enjoyed it’s handful of quaint cafes, and the small but friendly night market.  Two days later we caught an early ride south to Pakse to start our exploration of the Bolaven Plateau.