Central America

Days 212-214: Panama City, Panama

Posted on by ajrtw

A grain ship transiting the first lock at Miraflores
Ascending to the level of the next lock
Casco Viejo street art
The grand balcony at Magnolia Inn

Returned from the San Blas Islands, we gravitated back to the familiar Magnolia Inn.  As best we could, we attempted to plan our days using the Metro and Metrobus exclusively.  However, the major terminus of all the Metrobuses and the Metro, Albrook terminal, deemed itself chaotic and lacking good signage for the bus stops.  After lots of waiting, we were helped by a few friendly drivers and employees.  Eventually we caught the bus to the Amador Causeway, which links a few small islands just outside the city.  As we arrived we realized the Causeway was a bust; fencing put up along the road for construction blocked any view of the bay and the skyline.  To escape the heat we caught a movie at one of the many huge malls in the city center.

Our second and last full day in town, we were determined to navigate the bus system to get to the Miraflores locks.  Without hassle we boarded the correct bus and arrived just before opening at 9 am.  At the moment we entered the visitor center and made our way to the observation deck, a large grain-hauling ship was at the mouth of the first lock.  The vessel moved forward into the chamber and quickly the water level rose.  The ship’s crew waved to onlookers from the bow before progressing into the second lock chamber.  After the first ship, there didn’t seem to be any more lined up to enter the locks, so we easily could have showed up and not seen any action.  At dinnertime we again took the Metro to the El Cangrejo neighborhood for some authentic Italian fare.

Our last day in Panama city and Panama altogether, we strolled through the Casco Viejo neighborhood before heading for the Albrook bus terminal to eat then grab our final Metrobus to the Albrook domestic airport next door.  Next stop, courtesy of Air Panama: Medellin, Colombia!

Days 210-211: San Blas Islands, Panama

Posted on by ajrtw

dawn on Chichimei in San Blas, Panama
Path around Chichimei

Unlike most of our self-guided self-transport travel experiences, San Blas was firmly in the inclusive package deal camp.  With the minimal time we had to arrange the trip we were forced to sign up for the package like the majority of other island-goers.  The deal included Jeep transport from Panama City to the Caribbean coast, boat to the island, all meals and accommodation, and a boat tour of surrounding islands.  We read rather off-putting accounts of travelers having to use “toilets” over the sea, among other things.

 

However we believed we were rather lucky with choice of island and resort, Chichimei.  The roller coaster Jeep ride let us off in a misty morning at the crude riverside waiting area for tourists.  A few handwritten signs marked a handful of popular islands, but there was much confusion between the men in charge of the boat transfers.  Eventually we were introduced to the boat captain from Chichimei and after an hour waiting we set off with three other travelers.  Once out on the open sea, dozens of tiny specks of land came into view.  Ranging in diameter from twenty feet to half a mile in diameter, the islands are populated and controlled by the Kuna Yala indigenous tribe.  

 

Thirty minutes later we docked at the sparsely populated Chichimei.  After a bit of miscommunication about what we paid for was cleared up by a call to the travel agent, we settled into our sand floor bamboo hut outfitted with eight beds and a single light.  The appeal of the San Blas was immediately apparent as soon as we walked down the beach and saw only clear water, white sand and coconut palms.  A few hundred meters away was a much smaller island with a few huts, and in the shallows between were dozens of yachts and catamarans moored, likely for the popular San Blas to Colombia sailing route.  The women of the Kuna family running the resort prepared a large meal for the five of us which varied each time.  

 

Out in the water, we spotted a bunch of small tropical fish, sand dollars, and starfish.  On the boat tour we visited three small islands, and had the chance to snorkel around a ship wreckage.  We passed by a handful of other resort islands which mostly looked similar but more densely populated, as well as another tiny island just larger than the hut atop it.  A group of Kuna boys rowed from island to island with a canoe full of lobsters, although we passed on their offer.
The isolation of the island itself made for a serene environment, only to be broken by the resident parrot that started croaking at dawn each morning. Furthermore, the dining hut featured satellite TV.  While not our favorite island experience, San Blas provided a unique look into how the Kuna Yala survive off a mix of tourism and fishing in an environmental balancing act with nature.

Days 208-209: Panama City, Panama

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Looking at downtown Panama from Casco Viejo
sunset atop the Trump Ocean Club

Having been in Central America over three months at this point, entering the modern metropolis of Panama City felt quite unnatural at first.  Most of, if not all of the differences associated with a large city were a welcomed change.  First and foremost, the highly organized mass transit system in Panama City removed all the hassle of finding the right chicken bus or haggling a taxi.  The Metro and Metrobus lines, introduced in 2014, are all accessed by the same reloadable card.  Jumping into the subway car from the unrelenting humidity to be surrounded with ice-cold AC was a feeling I might never forget.  We took the Metro one stop down the line to Cinqo de Mayo, and walked the subsequent 15 minutes into the revitalized Casco Viejo (“old city”; also a UNESCO site) neighborhood.  We checked into the large colonial building that is Hotel Magnolia, only to find the AC broken.  Dinner our first night at the trendy tapas joint Tantalo set very high expectations for food.
At the recommendation of just about everything we read, we walked along the shoreline out of Casco Viejo the next day, and feasted on the freshest of ceviches at the fish market, which features about a dozen identical seafood stands next to the fishermen’s pier and wholesale fish market.  In an attempt to decide how to spend the next few days, we visited a handful of tour agencies to inquire about package tours to San Blas Islands on the Caribbean coast.  Once we had our island trip all sorted, we took advantage of the plentiful malls to catch respite from the heat, and even caught an American movie with Spanish subtitles.  The highlight of the city for sure was the sunset view from the top of the Trump Ocean Club, a 66-story sail shaped building situated in the heart of Panama’s Miami-like beachfront skyline.  

Day 207: Santa Fe, Panama

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beginning the hike to Bermejo
The pool at Bermejo
a tiny church amid the countryside
A remotely placed payphone
Crossing the Rio Bermejo

The quiet town of Santa Fe is not yet a must see for visitors to Panama, so naturally we chose to travel there and explore the abundance of hiking opportunities.  The hostel manager Stephanie provided a number of informative books and maps about area hikes.  With her recommendation we chose the trail to Cascada de Bermejo, following the river with the same name.  Armed with our packed lunch and a trail map, we followed a dirt road over rolling hills, crossed a footbridge over the shallow river before transitioning onto a footpath.

 

Along our route we greeted a handful of farmers and families going about their day, all seemingly welcoming to the sight of foreigners.  Nearing the waterfall we crossed through a field of orange and banana trees then finally scrambled over some slippery rocks to the large pool fed by the waterfall.  Despite the enticing fresh water, we only waded into the pool given the cooler mountain climate.  On the return path we followed the opposite bank of the river, then crossing a second bridge further downstream to make it back into the village.  Following the return hike and a hearty fried fish lunch, we were now ready to cool off. To do so we ambled down to the Rio Santa Maria just east of town to take a quick dip.

Days 205-206: Chiquiri, Panama

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Having arrived at dusk to the Lost & Found the night before, we awoke to an incredible vista of the surrounding mountains from the deck.  After a bit of map reading and asking around, we ventured off to begin the treasure hunt in the surrounding trails.  Most of the hiking was along the creek further up the mountainside from the hostel.  Without giving it away, we locate the treasure in a few hours and received our reward.  In the evening we met Rocky, the pet Kinkajou residing at the hostel, then cooked our dinner along with everyone else at the hostel (since it’s very remote there’s no other options for food).

reading a clue on our treasure hunt hike

The next day we set out back to the main road and attempted to catch a bus heading south to David.  Two minibuses passed by, possibly they were already full.  We hitched a pickup ride from a group of hostel guests going to a nearby coffee farm down the road to a roadside shop.  Thirty minutes later, we boarded a standing room only minibus for the hour to David.  From there we easily transferred to a luxurious double-decker coach bus heading east to Santiago for $9 each.  The Panama City bound coach bus stopped at a rest area on the edge of Santiago, so we inhaled some American fast food and covered the last few blocks on foot to make it to the bus terminal.  Aboard the last bus of the day back north or Santa Fe, we tolerated another two hours of slow-moving, music-blasting bus vibes.  Just north of the small town center we found our hostel at dusk after running into the manager on the street.

Day 204: Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica to Chiriqui, Panama

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We said our goodbyes to the beach and the wildlife of Puerto Viejo in Costa Rica and bussed it over the border to the small city of Changuinola.  With our luck we were dropped directly at the bus terminal for southbound shuttles heading to David.  The driver immediately knew when we asked for our hostel, Lost & Found.  The friendly driver asked me to sit up front for some reason, and he practiced his English with me while conversing about American football.  As we made our way inland the mountains came upon us and the driver focused more of his energy on the road.  We crossed over a large dam after three hours of driving, and then within minutes we were dropped off roadside at the base of the trail to the Lost & Found.  Just at the first sign of dusk we completed the short hike uphill to the hostel property and settled into our dorm, complete with triple stacked bunks.

Days 201-203: Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica

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Exiting Cahuita by local bus, we arrived shortly thereafter in the slightly larger, slightly more touristy Puerto Viejo.  Right away we secured a pair of dorm beds at Pagalu Hostel, our first choice due to the great kitchen area.  Right next door we rented bikes, as getting around to the nearby beaches and attractions was reportedly more enjoyable on two wheels rather than two feet.  After a grocery stock up and quick lunch assembly, we biked down eight kilometers to the east to Punta Uva Beach.  At the end of the dirt trail we were welcomed with a sign that read “Sloth Point”.  Coincidentally enough, in a nearby tree a few beachgoers had spotted a three toed sloth way up in the canopy.  Strong waves crashed the beach and a few surfers headed out to try their luck on the point break.  On the return bike trip the rain caught up with us, which provided welcomed relief from the constant sun.  We checked out Playa Cocles just as the rain subsided, which was clearly the surf hotspot with dozens of surfers bobbing out past the white water.

 

Having witnessed the wildlife of Cahuita just days before, we opted for a visit to the Jaguar Rescue Center just south of the town for a more up close encounter with an incredible array of animals.  We decided to go for a private tour of the Center which turned out to be well worth the extra cost.  Upon entering we quickly realized just how many animals were there, and our two hour tour covered just about all of them.  There were lots of snakes, alligators, a sea turtle, a pelican, several types of monkeys, owls, two toed sloths, ocelots, lizards, birds of all shapes and sizes, and an anteater.  What we learned about the philosophy of the Center was even more astounding- many of the animals (cats and monkeys, for example) are taken into the wild every day to acclimate themselves.  Sometimes the animals return the same day, other times they stay out for days on end before returning to the Center on their own.  They were even taking the full grown Green Sea Turtle into the ocean on a daily basis.  We had a chance to interact with the monkeys in their cage after they had returned from the forest which provided endless entertainment for all.  The Jaguar Rescue Center certainly was one of our highlights in Central America.
The final day in town, after some excellent banana bread french toast from Cafe Rico, we biked over to Playa Chiquita, a small secluded beach void of any resorts, which attributed to the remote feeling of the area.  En route to the beach, we stopped our bikes to watch a three toed sloth attempt to cross the road.  Luckily, a driver carried her across to the other side as we approached and life continued on.  

Day 200: Cahuita, Costa Rica

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The main draw to the tiny town of Cahuita is the beachfront National Park situated right next door.  From reading reviews, we had pretty high expectations of seeing wildlife, mainly howler monkeys and sloths, along the beachfront trail.  At the park entrance a guide offered his services, but we decided against it since we figured we would be able to spot animals on our own.  After making a donation at the park office, we started down the well maintained sandy trail through the coastal jungle.  Another guide stood under a three toed sloth high in the canopy, pointing it out to passers by and offering his services.  Still, we were determined to discover the park on our own, which turned out in our favor.
Within minutes we came across a family of howler monkeys playing in the lower branches overhanging the beach, allowing for great up close views.  We passed a snake, an iguana and tons of lizards.  A few minutes later, Ashley turned back and spotted a three toed sloth, moving on some very low branches just over the trail.  We turned around just in time to see the sloth gradually make her way across several small trees and up the thick trunk of a coconut palm.  Moving constantly but slowly for about 20 minutes, the sloth posed for some great pictures.  A few guides who joined the group of onlookers noted that we were extremely lucky as the sloths generally come down to the ground only once a week to defecate.  

fresh water confluence in Cahuita
spot the lizard
howler monkey in Cahuita
many different lizards
three toed sloth on the move
sloth just being a sloth
sloth beginning to climb

After the supreme luxury of sloth-watching, we ventured a bit further into the park, stopping at a breakpoint to swim and then turn around.  On the trail back we noticed the sloth had retreated from the tall coconut palm and was curled up on a low branch taking a nap.  For dinner, we were pleasantly surprised to discover some world class Italian pizza at Pizzeria Cahuita in town.  The amazing food that shows up in the most remote places like Cahuita is one of the best parts of travelling (at least for us).

Day 199: Rafting the Rio Pacuare, Costa Rica

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In order to maximize our value and limited time in Costa Rica, we knew we were going to have to choose our activities wisely.  Luckily, we picked a winner with the white water rafting tour from Exploradores Outdoors. Included in the full day rafting tour were two huge meals, and transport from our San Jose hostel to the rafting, and then from the rafting to our next destination, the Caribbean town of Cahuita.  In reality, it all worked out wonderfully from start to finish.  The tour guides were well organized, friendly, and even picked us up early.  
En route to the start point we were briefed on our rafting through what would be class III and IV rapids.  A light rain welcomed us as we set off in our boat with an English couple, amid a group of about a dozen boats.  The 18 kilometers of river were scattered with lots of rapids and few areas of calm water.  Along the Pacuare banks were lots of waterfalls and a few remote jungle lodges.  The rapids were not quite as massive as the class IV and V we ran on the Nile River in Uganda, but the jungle scenery and more constant pace of the rapids provided an equally enjoyable experience.  To end our day we were dropped at the Cabinas Palmer in the small fishing village of Cahuita on the south Caribbean coast.  

Day 198: San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua to San Jose, Costa Rica

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Yet another arduous border crossing day we were about to face.  However, compared to the previous four crossings we’ve completed in Central America, this particular day was, on paper, not terribly difficult.  Of course, almost nothing goes quite as planned so we had a few hiccups along our journey.  First, we were dropped off in the town square in Rivas from San Juan Del Sur, as opposed to the bus terminal.  Eventually we found a few locals, who confused us even more by saying the bus terminal was in a different spot than we had known it to be when we arrived.  Sure enough, we found the parking lot/terminal on the edge of town to be deserted, so we followed the steady stream of exiting chicken buses a few blocks and found an actual brick and mortar terminal building, with many buses.  In a matter of minutes we were heading to la frontera.  Following a pain free exit from Nicaragua, we changed our remaining Cordobas and checked into Costa Rica (after showing proof of onward travel with a refundable flight back to the US).  Right outside the migration building we waited for a coach bus direct to San Jose.  Let me emphasize how luxurious an actual coach bus, designed for long distance journeys, was after enduring countless chicken bus rides the previous three months.  
Six hours later we found ourselves trying to haggle a taxi ride across San Jose to Bekou Hostel, yet we ended up walking most of the way and then catching a city bus the last few blocks.  For dinner, the mall food court hit the spot with almost as many American chains as in the States.  Before heading back to our dorm we did some grocery shopping, as we knew dining out in Costa Rica would add up quickly.