Month: July 2015

Days 167-169: Suchitoto, El Salvador

Posted on by ajrtw

Main square in Suchitoto
Inside Casa de Abuela cafe
From the Centro de Artes Para La Paz
“In this house we want a life free of violence towards women” (seen all over town)

From the main road we hopped on the southbound bus to La Libertad, and then changed for the bus into San Salvador.  The usual traffic slowed us down in the city, and we decided against trying to figure out the local bus schedule to get us to the western bus terminal.  Once at the terminal via taxi, we were quickly directed to the Suchitoto bound bus.  After a bit of deliberation on where to stay we settled into our lakeview room at Hostal Vista Al Lago, a small place with a few rooms within a family’s property.  The view, as we had read, was unbeatable.  Being the only guests, we had our own patio and hammock overlooking the rolling hills and Lago Suchitlan, a seemingly shrinking reservoir backed up to a hydroelectric dam.  The general emptiness of town and lake setting reminded me a little of Laguna Bacalar in Mexico.  A nature reserve in neighboring Cinquera was the destination for our planned excursion.  We asked the very friendly guide at the local tourist information office and he told us to catch the bus at nine sharp as there was only one bus a day in each direction.  We arrived well before nine at the edge of town and waited for an hour, but no bus came.  We hiked back into town a bit defeated, theorizing the bus schedule was different since it was a Sunday.

Instead we checked out the Centro de Artes Para La Paz, a very informative institution combining history of the civil war, non violence education, and an art gallery.  The Museo featured a detailed wartime documentary produced by an American journalist who spent time living among the FMLN camps in the northern reaches of the countryside.  In the early afternoon we spotted the 482 bus to Cinquera rolling through town.  At least we had proof the bus existed.
Not ones to give up easily, we tried again the following morning to get to Cinquera, this time waiting at the main bus stop in town, among a large group of locals.  An hour flew by, as buses came and went, none were the 482.  A few locals we asked couldn’t come up with a good answer as to where the bus was.  We overheard a conversation between two men that the bus wasn’t running that day.  It appeared like it just wasn’t meant for us to go there.  Instead we relaxed the afternoon in the pool at a local restaurant.  That evening we planned the daunting route of buses we’d take the next day into Nicaragua.  On the final morning, just after six, the 482 bus appeared once again, as if to mock us.

 

Days 164-166: Playa El Tunco, El Salvador

Posted on by ajrtw

From the Cabanas we grabbed the local bus to toward El Tunco, 90 minutes down the coast.  The town of El Tunco has apparently developed very quickly in recent years to accommodate the increasing amount of tourism from both local and international guests.  There seemed to be about 20 places to stay and just as many places to eat in a very small town a few blocks square.  The real draw is the surf, right off the beach and at the surrounding point breaks.  The rock filled beach and large waves makes the water uninviting for swimming, which was fine with us since we’d just been at a very swimmable beach in Sonsonate.  I signed up for a surf lesson in the morning and we took in the sunset on the beach.

The wave conditions in the morning were calmer due to low tide and lower winds, but it was still a challenge for me to stand up having never surfed before.  I did a lot of paddling and falling into the water despite the help from my instructor.  We did enjoy much of the food offerings in town- from the Asian stir fry at Take A Wok, to the $2 smoothies on the main street, and the cheap pupusas on the outskirts of the town.  The last day at the beach we walked a mile down the beach towards some caves carved out of the cliffs by the pounding water. Our timing was slightly off, as the tide was still too high to enter the caves or even get close to it.  It was decided that we would venture north to the colonial town of Suchitoto for our next stop.

$2 smoothies

$2 smoothies

Days 162-163: Playa Dorada, El Salvador

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Spectacular whole fish at dinner
Beach view of the property
Our cabana

Included in the stay at Palapas Cabanas was a free ride to the beach with Juan’s father, Juan Senior. During the hour ride south from Juayua we passed through Sonsonate and then turned east to follow the coastline. Upon arrival we met Juan Senior’s wife, and she showed us around the grounds. The property featured ten cabins, plenty of hammocks and an elevated deck right on the beach. The beach extended a mile in each direction, with only a few people in sight. There didn’t appear to be any other type of resort or hotel in the area, which we enjoyed. As the place was opened in May, business had started out slowly and we happened to be the only guests that night. The true highlight of our stay was the delicious food served every meal. We dined on local fish, peppers stuffed with shrimp and calamari, all perfectly prepared. The Palapas Cabanas rank as one of the great hidden gems in El Salvador in our book.

Days 158-161: Juayua, El Salvador

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Gearing up, we left Casa Verde for the bus station, with intention to head to Juayua, situated southwest of Santa Ana.  At this point we were well accustomed to the ubiquitous street vendors snaking through the bus, shouting the name of their goods above the loud music of the aftermarket car stereos on each bus.  In the first ten minutes as the bus exited the terminal and entered the street, we witnessed the most impressive and longest stream of vendors we’d seen thus far.  Besides the endless fruits, vegetables, cold drinks and snacks we saw socks, clothes and a whole pizza stream by.

 

An hour later we walked into Casa Mazeta, a quiet hostel run by British ex-pat Darren.  We heard the the seven waterfalls tour ran by local guides came highly recommended, so we signed up for the next day.  The tour began from the hostel with a group of seven and two guides.  We passed through the rural outskirts of town before descending into a forested valley dotted with coffee plantations.  The steep path led through a few small waterfalls, then we came to a section of rocky path which led into a waterfall.  The guides secured climbing ropes along the 100 foot drop, and one by one we were led backwards down the waterfall.  The walk led through the remaining of the seven waterfalls, ending at a large man made pool.

 

We found a local pupuseria joint for dinner, ordering a variety of fillings in the thick, fried tortillas.  The following two days we ventured thirty minutes by bus to Ataco, most famous for the colorful murals covering most buildings in town.  Restaurante Tayua was so good we we’re lured back for the second day.  On the edge of town we visited the Finca El Carmen coffee plantation and processing plant.  We took a guided tour with Hector, a seasoned and knowledgeable employee of the farm.  Built in the early 1900’s the processing facility brought us back in time.  Most, if not everything we saw was original equipment from the time, many of the machines of which came from the United States and Europe.  We passed through the sorting, cleaning, drying, more sorting, storing, and roasting processes of the plant before trying the coffee ourselves, prepared by Hector using the traditional drip method through a cloth.

 

Also in Juayua we strolled through the park during the weekly food festival, in which there were dozens of vendors selling all types of typical Salvadoran fare.  Unsure of where to head next, we sought advice of Darren, who mentioned a newly opened beach resort, Palapas Cabanas, ran by a local family.  We met with the owner, Juan at their restaurant R&R, and decided after seeing a few pictures it was worth checking out.

Touring Finca El Carmen in Ataco
The original steam furnace, from Buffalo
Inside the steam rotary dryer
Sampling the traditional drip coffee

Days 156-157: Santa Ana, El Salvador

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spot the lizard
Volcan Izalco, from the route up Santa Ana
Lago de Coatepeque from Santa Ana summit

The tourism infrastructure within Santa Ana itself seemed limited to just a few hotels, as it is more of a starting point for the Ruta de Flores journey through western El Salvador. The Casa Verde hostel featured two large and well appointed kitchens for guests to use, so we happily made our meals there.  Also worth mentioning is how well organized and informative Casa Verde was for those looking to explore the area.  The first full day in town we made our way to the bus stop for the route up to Volcan Santa Ana.  After a bit of confusion (the bus actually originates in a terminal, not on the street with the local buses) we hopped on for the 90 minute ride to Cerro Verde, the national park which serves as starting point to Santa Ana and its smaller neighbor, Volcan Izalco.  Following an hour wait for the 11 am start, we set off with a Hungarian couple, our guide and two tourist policemen.  The first third of the hike was on gentle downhill and flat sections as we descended into a saddle.  We spotted a pair of small deer amid the trees, vanishing as soon as we laid eyes on them.  From the plain we embarked on the ascent, accompanied by the gradual transition from jungle to barren rock and various cacti.  Our guide intentionally led us on the straightest path up instead of the endless switchbacks.  Within two hours the crater rim and summit were beneath us.  On one side was the Lago de Coatepeque, and on the other was the deep crater with the stunning turquoise sulfuric lake at its bottom.  The guide pointed out the three concentric rings marking each of the three most recent eruptions (the latest being in 2005).  On the lake surface we saw the water bubbling and steam being pushed around its surface by the wind.  The climb down offered excellent vistas of the lake and dry streambeds snaking their way down the hillside.

Days 154-155: Panajachel, Guatemala

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At this point in our journey we were faced with a tough decision regarding our transport into El Salvador.  We weighed options of staying in Antigua, Pana, or even Xela, and debated over taking local buses versus long distance coaches. As the water taxi pulled into the pier at Pana, we had yet to decide the rest of the day.  We struck out with finding any new information at a few travel agencies on the bus schedule from Guatemala City (simply Guate to locals).  After checking out a few hotels that left us underwhelmed, we found ourselves standing at the bus station around noon time, yet to come to any major conclusions.  A local approached us offering taxi and shuttle services which we politely declined, but he did explain the Rebuli bus schedule, offering direct service almost every hour to Guate.  In order to cross the border during the daylight, we concluded it would be best to sleep in Pana and head out very early.  After more searching (one of us out looking for available rooms, the other staying with our bags on the street) we found a cheap room just a few blocks north of the bus stand.  Dinner we settled on pizza from Circus Bar, while we were entertained by a talented singer songwriter duo on guitar and saxophone.

 

Before dawn we hurried down the block and caught the Rebuli bus around 5:00.  Snaking slowly up and over the surrounding hills the bus filled gradually until the aisle was nearly full.  Two Mormon missionaries made their way through the bus, talking briefly with everyone.  When the young Caucasian man got to our seat, he started in Spanish and then drifted into English as he figured out our origins, admitting that he hardly spoke English anymore.  The ride was pleasant the rest of the way into Guate, and we came to a final stop at a non descript bus stand.  A few taxis were waiting, and the first driver we asked knew of the Pezzarossi (also referred to as Melva on some outdated websites) bus terminal.  We agreed on a fair price and in just a few minutes the terminal was before us, a white and red building with a large covered bay amid a commercial section of the city in Zona 4.  While waiting for the bus we picked up plenty of snacks and breakfast from the nearby market.  Right on time the 9:30 bus arrived, an old coach bus without any branding.  The five hour journey was pleasant, and the border crossing into El Salvador was quite simple.  We changed some money and hurried back to the already moving bus for another two hours into Santa Ana.  Walking into the town we successfully found the Hostel Casa Verde (Although locals we asked on 12 Avenida had no idea where 7 Avenida was), and settled into the clean and spacious private room.

 

For those interested in making the same route by bus from Panajachel (or Guate) to El Salvador here’s what you need to know:

 

1) From Pana, the red & white Rebulli (labelled as such) caminasa/chicken bus leaves every hour or so, starting at 5:00 am from the main bus stand.  It arrives in Guate in about 3 hours, but our did not terminate in any of the major bus terminals.

2) Catch a taxi to the Terminal Internaccional at 3rd Avenida 1-38 (often referred to as in Zona 9 on websites, but our taxi driver knew it to be in Zona 4).  The ride cost us Q50, taking ten minutes.  The white & red building is marked “Pezzarossi”, “San Salvador” and “Santa Ana”.

3)  Purchase your tickets inside the building which doubles as a hotel (departures at 6am, 9:30 am, 12:30 pm, and 2:00 pm); ours were Q120 each. 5 hour journey including the border crossing.

4)  If only going to Santa Ana, make sure to let the driver know as you board, as only a few people got off there.

There are of course other ways to make this journey by chicken bus (much slower, many changes required) or by other international coaches or tourist shuttles (more expensive).

Days 152-153: Jaibalito, Guatemala

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Most visitors to the Atitlan area probably do not even know of Jaibalito’s existence (it was not labeled on most tourist maps).  Settled in a steep valley on the northern shore, the tiny village is apparently the last lakeside community without road access.  Despite the remoteness, we found two highly rated lodge type accommodations in town that caught our eye.  Not to miss out on an opportunity to deviate from the tourist trail, we secured a reservation for two nights at the Volcan Lodge.  The hour boat ride brought us to the small pier, from which a concrete path led inland.  At the main intersection in town (probably the only one) we followed the signs another 100 meters to the Volcan Lodge entrance, marked by a high fence and iron gate.  The interior of the grounds were immaculately groomed with flowers, bushes, ground cover, cacti and trees of impressive variety.  We soon discovered we were the only guests for the night and had received a complimentary room upgrade.  Despite the miniscule size of the village, an elevated loudspeaker just over the fence blared out music all day, effectively offsetting the tranquil environment.

Near the dock we visited the resort style restaurant at Club Ven Aca for lunch with a view.  During the evening we found dinner at Posada Jaibalito, started by a German expat with a formidable beard.  As expected the food was a fusion of Bavarian and Guatemalan flavors.  The music continued on and off late into the night as we attempted sleep.

Following coffee and breakfast we did more porch sitting before meandering down the path to Pato Negro, which as far as we could tell was the only other restaurant in town that had any sort of sign.  We recognized the friendly man working there from dinner the previous night, and he advised us on what types of quesadillas to order.  Another afternoon we relaxed at Ven Aca next to the infinity pool overlooking Atitlan, then back to Posada Jaibalito for our evening meal.  We attempted to explore the path heading further inland, but were forced back down the narrow alley by a half dozen aggressive dogs.  Jaibalito ticked all the boxes in terms of being isolated and untouched by development, however the repetitive and inescapable music pushed our tolerance to the limit.

Days 147-151: San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala

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Pier at San Marcos
Exploring the “streets” of San Marcos
Sunrise over Atitlan from Indian Nose
Fisherman at work

Monday morning we visited (for the fourth or fifth time) Cafe Armonia for their delicious local organic coffee, and grabbed Chinese food for dinner.  Since we ordered way too much chow mein, we ate it again for breakfast before taking off for the Minerva bus terminal.  A few steps out of our hostel we jumped into a local van for Q 1.25 to take us to the terminal.  Locals had warned travellers to avoid the terminal since it is notorious for violence, so we wasted no time in getting to the correct bus with the help of a number of different men whose only job seemed to help people find the correct buses (since the terminal is really just a long street with buses parked all over).  Sure enough we boarded a bus signed “San Pedro La Laguna” and secured our bags in the overhead rack and under the seat.  Progress was slow as many people used it for shorter commuting purposes, and the bus stops anywhere, for anyone with their arm sticking out.  Nearing the lake, we snaked down a dozen wildly steep switchbacks, squeezing through the villages of San Pablo and San Juan before coming to a final stop outside the market in San Pedro.  The slow and bumpy three and a half hour ride was all but forgotten as soon as well walked downhill towards the lake and got our first glimpse of the iconic lake.  The lake itself is massive, covering 130 square kilometers however the perimeter of towering peaks and volcanoes encompassing Atitlan creates an illusion of scale.

 

We easily found a room at our first choice accommodation, Hotel Pinocchio.  The three story hotel offered great views from the rooftop, and each room was outfitted with a hammock on the balcony.  Just after checking in, we ran into a pair of girls we first met way back in Tulum and again in Belize.  In the cramped quarters of San Pedro near the lake shore, the roads end and footpaths take their place.  On the “main path” leading to the hotel, there were a handful of restaurants, places with hot tubs for rent, and plenty of tiendas.  We staked out the Buddha restaurant for some fusion food of Pad Thai and onion rings.  The bar filled with locals and travellers alike for open mic night, which provided an equally diverse array of talent.

 

For breakfast we bought some yogurt and bananas, and added in some delicious cinnamon granola from the Bake Shop in Xela.  We walked down to the main road and caught a boat taxi to San Marcos, just ten minutes away.  San Marcos is well known for several holistic centers set amid the small village (with far less roads than San Pedro).  Strolling along the path we found a few eateries and grabbed a healthy lunch.  Arching over the path were several trellises in full bloom with purple flowers.  Then we followed the signs towards the reserva natural, a minute walk from the pier.  On arrival we had seen an elevated platform to jump in the water and a scenic path following the circular shape of the reserve which jutted out into the lake like the head of a spoon.  We paid a modest entry fee and walked in the direction of the trampolin, where we found a large group of travellers jumping from various points into the water.  After observing a few others, I jumped off and in mid air the water seemed much farther away for a split second.  One jump was enough, and we walked further along the path, upward toward the central peak of the reserve.  At a few various viewpoints or miradors there were Mayan altars, composed of a few stones arranged in a way that made one wonder if it was a ruin or had been recreated.
Back in San Pedro we gathered for dinner with our fellow southbound travellers for homemade Italian cooking at Italianissimo before checking out the nightlife at the lakeside Sublime Cafe.  Following another day in town, we arose around 3:30 am for the start of the Indian Nose viewpoint hike.  Along with our guide Juan and a handful of other early risers, we embarked on a van ride ascending up and away from the lake.  The walking portion of the trip started off through the edge of a small village, then through fields of maiz.  Abruptly the path began moving straight up the hillside, then progressed to switchbacks as the grade steepened.  The thirty minute walk concluded atop a grassy knoll with a small elevated viewing platform.  Being just after dawn, the lake was still mostly hidden in the shadows of the surrounding hills and fog cover.  Below we could pick out each lakeside settlement, the looming Volcan San Pedro and the beyond, the quietly erupting Volcan Fuego.  From that distance the lake was motionless except for the slowly morphing surface patterns carved by the wind. After a generous portion of desayuno tipico courtesy of Juan, we hopped into a shared pick up for the five minute ride into neighboring San Juan.  Although lacking the hotels and lakeside restaurants of San Pedro, we heard about the abundance of local textile cooperatives ran by women.  In addition to an array of every imaginable woven product, many stores offered weave your own scarf or other piece of choice.  At the local square we happened upon the makings of a festival complete with a large ferris wheel.  We snacked on popcorn out of a Dora the Explorer gift bag and found another pickup waiting to fill up for the ride to San Pedro. Once back we ventured down a narrow path to the water to the hotel/restaurant Mikaso for a refreshing drink.  For the last two meals we couldn’t pass up the pasta at Italianissimo, and then the Idea Connection bakery in the morning (for the second time) for their unbelievable croissants.