Southeast Asia

Days 307-308: Phonsavanh, Laos

Posted on by ajrtw

bomb crater at the Plain of Jars
MAG sign marking the mine-safe path at Plain of Jars

Our decision to visit the sleepy town of Phonsavanh emanated from our desire to skip out on tourist hotspots of Vang Vieng and Vientiane.  Before we arrived however, we had to endure a stomach-turning bus journey through the mountainous terrain on the winding track from Luang Prabang.  

 

The accommodation in Laos certainly offered a great value for the cheap rates we paid, and the Namchai guesthouse in Phonsavanh hit all the marks.  We ventured around the singular main street through town and ate some lackluster Indian food, then grabbed cheese sandwiches and banana bread for the next day’s grub.

 

On our Chinese Honda knock-off motorbike we set out south of town to the Plain of Jars site 1.  Besides featuring large fields filled with hundreds of ancient stone jars (possibly for burial purposes) and a handful of small caves, the site also bears the more recent scars of war in the form of bomb craters and hidden unexploded ordnance (UXO).  We stuck to the indicated walkways marked by the Mines Advisory Group signs and took in the sobering contrast of natural and manmade landscapes.

 
Further from town were additional Jars sites but having seen enough already we grabbed lunch in town before a visit to the MAG UXO information center.  We were fortunate to view a well-produced documentary highlighting the dangerous and arduous work of finding and destroying UXO in the region, as well as the effort to educate a very poor and rural population on the risks of living in proximity to the unseen UXO.  Before dawn on our second morning, we haggled a tuk-tuk ride out to the bus station for a very long southbound trip to Savannakhet.

Days 304-305: Luang Prabang, Laos

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kuang si
rescued asiatic bears at Kuang si
kuang si
kuang si

At the bus station in Luang Prabang our van was swarmed with eager tuk tuk drivers quoting rather steep prices for a ride into town. Outside the station on the street we haggled a ride for about half the cost much to our relief. Before checking into the Mano guesthouse, we submitted applications for Vietnamese visas at the embassy for next day pick up.

Seeking a bit of comfort, we made our way to the edge of town for pizza by a Canadian expat. After a satisfying pie, we crossed one of the iconic bamboo pedestrian bridges into the main tourist area of town for a stroll through the expansive night market.

Our intention to visit the Kuang Si waterfall 30 km south of the city was rewarded when we meet a group of five tourists already waiting in a tuk tuk ready to depart. More than anywhere, the strength in numbers came into play in negotiating a fair price with the drivers. After coming to an impasse with the driver on price, our entire group began climbing out of the truck ready to find another ride. By the time we had all exited, the driver changed his tune and agreed to our requested price, and off we went.

Situated at the entrance to the waterfall was a center for rescued Asiatic bears. A few off the bears were active and one in particular captivated our attention for a few minutes quite eating some bamboo. Fortunately, Kuang Si was just as visually appealing as we’d seen it in pictures. The river bank path led us by dozens of small cascades of white water, each different than the last. The trail split at the base of the main waterfall, and we took a rather steep and slippery incline on the right side up to the top of the plume.

We enjoyed a picnic lunch at one of the many tables along the path then retreated down the trail for our return to town, stopping by to snap a few bear pictures on the way.

At evening time we had an extraordinary meal at the popular riverside restaurant Tamarind. The cuisine featured inventive takes on traditional Lao meals, including many things like fried lemongrass stuffed with chicken we’d never seen before.

To kick off our final day in town, Ashley took part in the daily gathering at Big Brother Mouse where students can come to practice their English skills with foreigners. We stopped for mid morning coffee in a large colonial era building along the main drag. After retrieving our passports from the Vietnamese embassy, we walked a few blocks to the UXO information center and educated ourselves on the harsh realities that unexploded bombs dropped on Laos are still maiming and killing people each year.

Our taste buds were still curious for more authentic Lao cuisine, which we found at Rosella for dinner. Our plates of traditional Laab salad and stir fried eggplant were some of our favorite meals in Laos.

Returning to the bus station, we boarded the mini bus bound for Phonsavanh.

Days 299-303: Muang Ngoi, Laos

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sunset over the Nam Ou
Muang Ngoi countryside
blooms outside our bungalow

Accessible only by boat, Muang Ngoi appeared to be an ideal spot to kick back for a few days while experiencing the lifestyle of a rural Lao village. Having grown in popularity for its remoteness and dramatic mountain views across the Nam Ou, we arrived on the boat from Nong Khiaw to a few hawkers offering bungalows. Luckily we found a river view bungalow at our first choice, Nicksas Guesthouse. The room was basic but had an attached bathroom, two hammocks on the porch, and a superb view of the slowly coursing river. The tourist portion of the village consisted of a single dusty street less than a kilometer in length lined with guesthouses, restaurants, and a handful of houses.

 

The real draw of town for us was simply taking in the views from our hammocks. Other highlights included walks along the river bank where we watched kids try their luck at net fishing while water buffalo waded through the water upstream. We attempted a walk to the neighboring village, but turned back before we made it as the grueling track under the direct sun quickly wore us out.

 

The food we sampled was a bit too bland and as a result we found ourselves eating sandwiches on a daily basis. We returned to Nong Khiaw after three blissful days by the river, walked to the west end of town to the bus station and caught a minivan south towards Luang Prabang.

Day 298: Nong Khiaw, Laos

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The winding and rugged road east to the small crossroads at Pak Mong was one journey we were glad to be over with.  Another hour in a minivan and we arrived in Nong Khiaw, a tourist hotspot for boat journeys along the Nam Ou.  The town itself stretched out on both sides of a long arched bridge spanning the river, with dozens of guest houses and plenty of eateries on either bank.  Soon enough we secured a basic room at the Bamboo Guesthouse and settled on Indian fare for dinner.  Nong Khiaw didn’t have the allure or wealth of activities to keep us there more than one night, as we had our sights set upriver on the more secluded Muang Ngoi.

Days 296-297: Luang Namtha, Laos

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entering Muang Sing
windy road towards Muang Sing

At the Thai-Laos border we swiftly had our Laos visas processed and were back on the road into Luang Namtha, a single street tourist trekking hub in the northern reaches of the country. Urging to get out and explore, we grabbed a cheap motorbike rental in town and set out north along the rural road to the town of Muang Sing. Along the route we witnessed the stark contrast of abundant poverty and child laborers in comparison to more affluent Thailand. Hungry upon arrival we struggled to find any restaurants, as a lot of shops were either deserted or appeared closed.  Back to Luang Namtha we returned where we managed to get lunch. We were happy to have sandwiches and baked goods available to provide a bit of variety to rice and noodle dishes we’d been used to ordering thus far in Southeast Asia.

Early the following morning we negotiated a tuk tuk ride to the bus station for the journey east onto Nong Khiaw.

Days 294-295: Chiang Rai, Thailand

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At the wonderful Hohm Hostel, we unwound after our four day, 495 kilometer motorbike loop. With a comfy mattress, breakfast of fresh salad, and warm staff, the hostel was one of the finest we’ve frequented. Compared to the motorbike journeys we’d done previously in Nan and Mae Hong Son provinces, the scenery was overall less stunning, however the colorful sunrise at Phu Chee Fa was certainly well worth the trip.  Still suffering from a fever and cough, I visited the walk-in clinic and stocked up on meds to help combat what seemed like bronchitis.  

 

Again we went for dinner at Barrab and were equally satisfied the second time around.  At the government bus ticket office we arranged our seats on the international coach bound for Luang Namtha, Laos.

Day 293: Phu Chee Fa, Thailand

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happy to have arrived at Phu Chee Fa
Sunrise

The journey from Chiang Saen south up to Phu Chee Fa began in a thick morning fog.  Just as the sun’s heat started to make its presence known, we spotted a coffee shop to warm up in.  Onwards we went, and gradually the terrain rose as we found ourselves coursing through the valley nestled between two parallel ridges.  The final half hour approach up to Phu Chee Fa challenged our Honda machine but the hills succumbed graciously, allowing us to arrive at the hotel-ridden town of Phu Chee Fa in early afternoon.  We lucked out and found a room much cheaper than the going rate.  The vast majority of visitors to Phu Chee Fa, us included, come to witness the iconic sunrise over the Mekong valley in Laos from atop a steep precipice.  To better prepare for the predawn trip up to the peak we rode up the two km approach road in the late afternoon, followed by a ten minute jaunt on foot.  The view was striking in every direction, and we picked out a viewing spot away from the main cliff to return to for the main event the next morning.
At five o’clock sharp we returned up the mountain along with a throng of visitors.  Along the path vendors hawked everything from flashlights to instant coffee.  We were happy to be among the first to arrive to our chosen viewing spot below the main peak, which filled quickly as the first light illuminated the valley of fog below us.  The valley across the border in Laos appeared more like a frozen milky sea, with hilltops poking through the thick layer of moisture.  The horizon morphed from purple to red, then bright orange in dazzling fashion.  As tranquil as the scene was, the unfortunate distraction of local child performers dancing for tips to pop music blasting from their parents’ boombox was a sad reality check.  With the sun now high above the distant jagged horizon, we began the trip back to Chiang Rai.  Following another scenic ride south out of the valley, we found yet another cozy coffee shop to rest in before continuing the flat ride back towards the city.

Day 292: Chiang Saen, Thailand

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hunting for dinner along the Mekong

After a quick and flat two hour ride, we arrived in Chiang Saen to sweeping views of the mighty Mekong and Laos on the opposite bank.  Over afternoon coffee we watched as river life passed by and the nightly food stalls began to take shape on the sidewalk.  A few blocks back from the river we took in the impressive stupa at Wat Chedi Luang, which beared scars from withstanding an earthquake.
At sunset we perused the sidewalk stalls complete with plastic tables, english menus, and reed mats.  Our meal consisted of seriously spicy seafood salad and minced pork with basil.  Further down the bank away from the town center was a long open air building full of additional restaurants with hundreds of tables, yet for some reason it was devoid of patrons.  That evening at the Phu Saen Luang hotel on the outskirts of town we planned the next day’s route through the mountains up to Phu Chee Fa.

Day 291: Mae Chan, Thailand

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massive dinner at Suancha Tea Garden
sampling some local tea

Along the winding back road down from Mae Salong, we made a few pit stops; first at one of several tea shops to sample some locally produced tea.  Next we sat down for coffee and some cake at a scenic outdoor cafe.  Ever increasing in popularity, coffee shops in rural Thailand draw in throngs of tourists and locals alike with the lure of nicely manicured gardens, colorful signs or landmarks to enjoy a photo with, and of course caffeinated beverages.  Just before Mae Chan we grabbed a tasty lunch at a roadside stand.  With a bit of difficulty we managed to make our way down the pothole-filled roads to Suancha Tea Garden.  With only two bungalows set far apart amid a large orchard, the peaceful sounds of nature emerged.

 

At evening time, we were treated to a massive homemade dinner.  Among the dishes served were fried sausage wrapped in tea leaves, mashed potatoes, stir fried mushrooms, stir fried pork, noodle soup, and fresh mango.  In the morning we lounged on the large balcony with our books and tea.  At noontime we were back on the bike headed northeast towards the border town of Chiang Saen.

Day 290: Mae Salong, Thailand

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Chinese martyrs memorial

Our motorbike ride northwest towards Mae Salong took us upwards into the abruptly rising mountains.  Despite not having a semiautomatic bike, we managed several steep grades with ease.  Situated atop a winding mountain ridge, the compact center of Mae Salong was bustling with a large open air market when we arrived.  After lunch and a coffee stop we headed south of town out to our accommodation at the Akha Mudhouse.  Situated within a small Akha village, the Mudhouse was the brainchild of Johan, a local man whose ingenuity and care for his community were clearly evident in our night spent there.  Johan and his family prepared spicy dishes of traditional food for our dinner while he explained the environmental building methods he used to construct the mountainside rooms.  As the resort was still in its infancy, Ashley offered her suggestions in how to promote the Mudhouse online, and information about work exchanges.

 
At sunrise we cracked open our window to gaze at a fiery red horizon before setting off into town to check out the Chinese Martyrs Memorial.  The memorial was deserted, but contained some informative exhibits about the past conflicts in the area during the Indochina War.  We warmed up with another drink at Poosalong Coffee and then started the descent from the ridge top east towards Mae Chan.