Setting off south from Nairobi we hit the Tanzanian border in a few hours. We had another round of Ebola screening and visa paying (US citizens pay $100 while everyone else pays $50 for a tourist visa) and continued to the bustling hub of Arusha to stock up on food, supplies, and Tanzanian Shillings. Most noticeable was how dry and arid the land was compared to the more tropical environment in Rwanda and Uganda. We also saw many Maasai tribesmen and women, most of whom were herding cattle. Perhaps one of the most widely recognized ethnic tribes in East Africa with their unmistakable red plaid shawls and long staffs, it was interesting to see how they assimilated into modern culture and ways of life as we passed by groups of the congregating near shops on the roadside. An hour south of Arusha we arrived at our campground in Mto Wa Mbu (Swahili for “river of mosquitoes”). We had a chance to talk with new people on our tour, as well as experience a local cultural group perform dancing and acrobatic stunts backed by a group of drummers and a xylophone.
In the morning we were awoken by the sun beaming through the open windows of the tent; The hot weather was also a change from previous locations on the tour. A group of local cultural guides arrived to lead us on a walking tour of the village, starting in the fields. Due to the large number of rivers and springs in the area supporting stable, fertile land, Mto Wa Mbu has long been a place where tribes from around Tanzania and neighboring countries have come to settle. Among the 120 different tribes in Tanzania, many are represented in this town of about 24,000 (although many tribes do not participate in census polls since it is not aligned with their beliefs). Most residents are farmers, growing rice, bananas, squash, sugarcane, coffee, tea, and many more crops we did not see. Most impressive was the dam irrigation system that flowed systematically through each plot of land. Next we ventured into a few different types of houses; mud and stick, and cement blocks. The guides explained the economic factors that dictated what type of materials were used, and how large homes can take many years to complete as farmers cycle through harvest seasons.
Further on we met wood-carvers from the Macombe tribe of Mozambique, who relocated here to escape the civil war in the 60s. I had visited a similar shop in Mozambique in 2005, but the guides added much information about different types of wood used and we were able to watch the carvers at work on many different pieces. Following the artist theme we then visited a painting group and their gallery of work. In addition to the 6 artists employed there, they also offer art education to local schools, a subject not covered in their curriculum. Our group then meandered into a preschool, filled with about 100 excited kids in a single class. The teacher guided them through many songs, counting and reciting words in english, which they shouted out with much enthusiasm. We applauded their efforts and left to allow their day to continue. On the way to a local family prepared lunch we stopped to learn about banana beer and wine, a Tanzanian specialty. Lunch for the group was a huge variety of all local and freshly prepared foods. Eggplant, okra, beef stew, salads, fried sweet potatoes, flatbread, chili sauce were some of the highlights of the lunch. The tour concluded back at the main road where we met our truck. I left the village feeling humbled (the majority of the fees are distributed to the groups visited during the tour)
One last hour in the truck, we stopped briefly at a viewpoint overlooking Lake Manyara National Park, and soon after we hit the Kudu campsite in Karatu in late afternoon.
AJ - RTW adventure 